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Chaldean News: A Commemorative Edition of 'Chaldean Story' Series

  • Text
  • Amba
  • Marijuana
  • Mesopotamia
  • Iraqi
  • Cultural
  • Iraq
  • Detroit
  • Michigan
  • Chaldeans
  • Chaldean
This commemorative edition includes all of the features published with the Chaldean Story series, made possible with generous support from Michigan Stories, a Michigan Humanities Grants initiative.

CULTURE & HISTORY First

CULTURE & HISTORY First Tango with Mango: Iraqi Amba BY ADHID MIRI, PHD In the world of culinary delights, few things can match the mouthwatering tang and flavor offered by a good old-fashioned Iraqi mango pickle (amba). To tell the story of amba, or as it is popularly known in India, Aam ka Achar, we must begin with the story of Indian Ocean trade and the longstanding historical network of merchants who traversed this massive body of water for millennia bringing spices, people, and ideas to Basra-Iraq from all directions. Iraqis traditionally do not use curry and hot peppers in their cooking. Amba sauce was transferred from the Indian peninsula to Basra-Iraq by Iraqi Jewish merchants in Bombay. The product found its way to the Souq Hanoon and Shorja markets in Baghdad at the beginning of the twentieth century where it was modified and popularized to fit the mild taste of Iraqi cuisine. In this article, we delve into the rich history of amba in Iraq, exploring its journey from a humble homemade delight to a beloved condiment that can be enjoyed with many traditional Iraqi dishes, adding a burst of freshness and a tangy twist to many meals. Pickling Pickling was one of the very limited number of ways to preserve food before the invention of canning (about 200 years ago) and modern refrigeration. This process has been an integral part of civilizations and an ancient practice to preserve food for long journeys. Almost anything can be preserved through pickling—fruits, vegetables, berries, leaves, roots, and even some meats. Vegetables and fruits get spoiled due to the presence of moisture in them. One of the ways to preserve some of these items for a longer period is the pickling process. Mangoes get spoiled in a few days, but a mango pickle lasts for several months. The true history of pickles remains somewhat a mystery. They were introduced so far back in the mists of history that no one knows exactly when, although some believe they date back to India some 4,030 years ago. Pickles are mentioned in the Bible, in the Old Testament books Numbers and Isaiah. Cleopatra attributed some of her beauty to pickles, Aristotle claimed that pickled cucumbers had healing properties, Napolean valued the pickle’s health benefits for his army, and reportedly, George Washington had a collection of 476 different kinds of pickles. (I wonder if he ate them all.) What is Amba? Amba is a liquid sauce with a hot spicy taste that is widely used in Iraqi food. It is typically made of pickled green mangoes, vinegar, salt, turmeric, chili, and fenugreek. The Iraqi amba may have been derived from a type of pickle spread in India and the Arabian Gulf called green mango chutney. Amba is available in the market either in the form of a prepared liquid in a glass bottle with a wide mouth to allow the flow of liquid and the mango fruit pickled in it, or in the form of a powder from which the dough is prepared by adding water and vinegar to it. To Iraqis, opening a bottle of amba is a universally enjoyable experience. The aroma of spices takes us back to our childhood, and the fiery peppers and colorful fruits in the mixture are a sight to behold. Amba is eaten alone or added to falafel, shawarma sandwiches, boiled eggs, eggplant, or fried potatoes and is considered one of the best ingredients in Iraqi food. Amba is best when paired with Hyderabadi biryani, one of the most popular rice dishes. It is also the basic material for preparing certain types of Iraqi Turshi. One of the amba’s primary purposes is related to its ability to mask whatever else you’re eating. Tangy, spicy, and tropical, amba is a storm of flavors that adds brightness and complexity to the simplest of meals. The Baghdadis developed this taste further and Amba was associated with the famous wood-grilled Masghouf (Tigris trout) on Abou Al-Nawas Street. The quintessential street food has evolved to be served in Mediterraneanstyle restaurants around the world. With its deep fermented flavors and spice, amba adds an exciting element that you’ll be tempted to spread on everything and anything. The First Tango with Mango The Jews of Iraq claim that they were the first to import amba to Basra from Bombay, India, and then spread it to Baghdad and the rest of the country. It is said that the Sasson family invented the amba sauce, as we know it in Iraq. Beginning in the 17th century, groups of Iraqi Jewish merchants from Baghdad moved to the Persian Gulf port of Basra and from there onward to Mughal India, where they set up settlements in towns like Bombay, Pune, and Calcutta. Over time, other Jewish Arabs from Aleppo and Yemen also often joined these communities. In Bombay, the Iraqi Jewish merchants imported dates and Arabian horses from Iraq and exported Indian spices to Basra. They had learned to eat pickled foods with curry and exported several barrels of pickled mangoes seasoned with salt, pepper, and concentrated curry, to the famed Jewish community market (Souq Hanoun) Hanoun market in central Baghdad. Along with spices, textiles, and luxury goods, recipes also made their way back to Iraq from India. One of these was amba, a delicious and tangy mango pickle that is at both spicy, sweet, and sour, and which became a phenomenal hit across Iraq (and in southwestern Iranian cities like Ahwaz as well). By the mid-20th century, amba was everywhere; Iraqi Jewish novelist Somekh Sassoon, for example, describes growing up with it on the AMBA continued on page 54 52 CHALDEAN NEWS CHALDEAN STORY

Beth Nahrain WRITERS OF MESOPOTAMIA CONFERENCE FEATURING ROY GESSFORD HABIB HANONA DR. ADHID MIRI SAAD MURAD WEAM NAMOU SABAH YACOUB 2ND ANNUAL “DEVELOPING WRITERS FROM THE ARAMAIC SPEAKING COMMUNITY AND BEYOND” “WRITING ABOUT THE ANCIENT HISTORY OF CHALDEANS” “THE WRITING EXPERIENCE, AND THE IMPORTANCE OF EDUCATION AND CHALDEAN IDENTITY (THE BRAND)” “WRITING ABOUT GENOCIDE AND SURVIVAL” “LEGENDARY WOMEN OF MESOPOTAMIA” “CERTAIN ASPECTS OF ARABIC POETRY” SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 11, 2023 10 AM - 2 PM CHALDEAN COMMUNITY FOUNDATION 3601 15 MILE RD STERLING HEIGHTS, MI 48310 CHALDEAN STORY Made possible with generous support from Michigan Stories, a Michigan Humanities Grants initiative. TOPIC Attend in-person or via Zoom Visit chaldeanculturalcenter.org for details. Registration opens October 23, 2023 CHALDEAN STORY CHALDEAN NEWS 53

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